Removing paint from engine
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Removing paint from engine
Hi folks, have a question. May have been covered here before but a thread search did not bare any fruits.
I have some old glow engines here that are looking really ragbagged. They are clean and smooth, functionally perfect, thanks to the boiling AF dips. However these engines are painted and the condition of the paint just looks like crap. They are OS blue 65LA and a couple red Irvines. They looked fantastic when new and fresh, but now they look terrible with faded color and flaked spots.
My question is how do I get that paint off? I would like to get these engines naked and go au-naturel for now. I do not care if they come out shiny or not. Just want the paint off. I may decide to repaint at some later date to my custom colours. For now I just want to get them to shake the ratty look.
Ideas, tips, methods, something easy? I really don't want to be taking abrasives to it. What I am hoping for is; a proven chemical dip followed up with a toothbrushing is what I am after please.
I have some old glow engines here that are looking really ragbagged. They are clean and smooth, functionally perfect, thanks to the boiling AF dips. However these engines are painted and the condition of the paint just looks like crap. They are OS blue 65LA and a couple red Irvines. They looked fantastic when new and fresh, but now they look terrible with faded color and flaked spots.
My question is how do I get that paint off? I would like to get these engines naked and go au-naturel for now. I do not care if they come out shiny or not. Just want the paint off. I may decide to repaint at some later date to my custom colours. For now I just want to get them to shake the ratty look.
Ideas, tips, methods, something easy? I really don't want to be taking abrasives to it. What I am hoping for is; a proven chemical dip followed up with a toothbrushing is what I am after please.
Last edited by FaceDeAce; 02-01-2017 at 09:36 AM.
#3
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Sandblasting will eat away the aluminum quickly. It will also pit the surfaces. You need the finer material like we used on metal to 'frost' it. We called that 'sand texting' back then. The nozzle is smaller but I think the same air pressure as sand blasting. I've been away from it for a long time.
#4
Media blasting (walnut shells) or soda blasting (baking soda) would work, but I would bet a long soak in some acetone or lacquer thinner might get it off if other means don't.
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Which one of these would be the best bet at a chance at it?
http://www.homehardware.ca/en/cat/se...paint+stripper
https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/DSSSSO
https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/DSSBPSQ
http://www.homehardware.ca/en/cat/se...paint+stripper
https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/DSSSSO
https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/DSSBPSQ
Last edited by FaceDeAce; 02-01-2017 at 10:30 AM.
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Unless anyone has tried proven been there done that recommendation .... I think am going to try the Dominion "Sure Strip" stuff. Perhaps this coming weekend.
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Some are cowled, some are open.
Didn't get to these last weekend. Ended up doing front end work replacing CV axles on the wife's truck instead. Priorities, eh.
Didn't get to these last weekend. Ended up doing front end work replacing CV axles on the wife's truck instead. Priorities, eh.
#14
#17
Doesn't someone who is a member of RCU have powder coating capability? What do you need to do it? Doesn't Harbor Freight have the tools for sale? So many questions, so few answers.
However, hi temp spray paint also comes in black as well as silver. Don't know if glossy as well as flat though. There used to be gold and silver and other colors of polyurethane spray for alloy wheels. May not be heat resistant though. Likely ok for valve covers, like Saito gold ones on GKs. Good luck.
However, hi temp spray paint also comes in black as well as silver. Don't know if glossy as well as flat though. There used to be gold and silver and other colors of polyurethane spray for alloy wheels. May not be heat resistant though. Likely ok for valve covers, like Saito gold ones on GKs. Good luck.
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Exactly why I started this thread. Surely, there is someone who does this type of stuff in their day job and can bring some of that knowledge here.
I got as far as buying some paint and coating stripper yesterday. When I get to do anything with it, I will update back here. Don't wait up, it might be a week or two before I have another Round Tuit in my pocket to spend.
Hobbsy, yeah your Saito there. That is very much the type of thing I am asking about here.
Spaceworm, painting over existing coating is just shoddy workmanship. I go by that if going to do it, do it properly or don't do it at all.
I got as far as buying some paint and coating stripper yesterday. When I get to do anything with it, I will update back here. Don't wait up, it might be a week or two before I have another Round Tuit in my pocket to spend.
Hobbsy, yeah your Saito there. That is very much the type of thing I am asking about here.
Spaceworm, painting over existing coating is just shoddy workmanship. I go by that if going to do it, do it properly or don't do it at all.
Last edited by FaceDeAce; 02-09-2017 at 09:45 AM.
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I have recently stripped the paint off 2 motors and repainted them, the first one I did was a blue LA46, the second was a blue LA25, I mostly just soaked them in acetone all day while I was at work, I'm a painter so obviously I have access to a wide range of chemicals, acetone was the most effective.
you won't be able to completely strip the paint off even if you soak it for days, your best bet is to soak it a few hours, and then using a wire brush and scotchbrite just go to work scrubbing the crud out of it, use the brush for the cooling fins, you will still have paint in spots unless you bead blast or or whatever was mentioned before, tho I heard years back never to use any type of blasting on a glow engine because it can somehow weaken the case and misshape it, I would just re paint it if I was you, get some hi temp paint and go for it.
hope this helps.
First motor is the 25 the second is the 46
you won't be able to completely strip the paint off even if you soak it for days, your best bet is to soak it a few hours, and then using a wire brush and scotchbrite just go to work scrubbing the crud out of it, use the brush for the cooling fins, you will still have paint in spots unless you bead blast or or whatever was mentioned before, tho I heard years back never to use any type of blasting on a glow engine because it can somehow weaken the case and misshape it, I would just re paint it if I was you, get some hi temp paint and go for it.
hope this helps.
First motor is the 25 the second is the 46
#22
Eastwood has powder coating products for hobby use. Many towns have powder coating business, so check around. You could check out any good hod rod products shop for high temp paint in aerosol cans. Even Advance Auto Parts, O'Rileys, or Auto Zone will have a few colors. There are exhaust manifold paints too, but probably a limited selection of colors. For example I got Chevrolet engine orange for my '57 283cid engine. I punched a hole in the can, and emptied the contents so that I could spray it in my touch-up-gun. Be careful because the propellant mixes with the paint, so it takes a while for the gas to bubble out of the paint. Also be careful with paint strippers, as they may turn the aluminum black. Soaking in acetone will remove the OS paint. Good luck, and let us see your results.
#23
While I have no experience with powder coating, I think it may not take the heat. It is electrostatically attracted to the metal, and heated to melt in and level out. I don't think It is really hot, maybe similar to an engine temperature. High heat enamels have a bit of metal in them to dissipate the heat, like in car rads. Some enamel is also dissolved by methanol. We always etched, deoxidized, and chromated aluminum so paint would stick at work. Just some precautions, not really instructions, because, well, what do I know. I am subscribed, as I have a few brown charcoal coloured LA's. I am not a fan of the blue although I have a pretty one that matches a plane. I believe the paint holds in the heat, and that is not desireable? I could be wrong?, well maybe not, it would be a first...
#24
Many Rotax mufflers (think ultralights), and motor cycle mufflers are powder coated. Powder coating is not exclusively a electrostatic process. Some coating is painted on before baking. Some powder coating is not designed for high heat applications, such as the application of it on automobiles. Once again, as a starting place, check out Eastwood.
#25
I was tipped off to a paint stripper that is metal-safe. Worked wonders on this LA25 I have. Klean Strip Premium stripper. http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/pr...ripper-aerosol
Follow all directions on can INCLUDING Wear chemical resistant clothes, gloves, safety glasses, and WORK OUTSIDE. The stuff stinks and is flammable as all get out. An old toothbrush works good for scrubbing the lifted paint off.
I found a surprise under the blue paint. . I also noticed the bronze crankshaft bushing doesn't run the entire length of the crankcase. Kind of a let-down.
Follow all directions on can INCLUDING Wear chemical resistant clothes, gloves, safety glasses, and WORK OUTSIDE. The stuff stinks and is flammable as all get out. An old toothbrush works good for scrubbing the lifted paint off.
I found a surprise under the blue paint. . I also noticed the bronze crankshaft bushing doesn't run the entire length of the crankcase. Kind of a let-down.