ReaperGrim

#29 While it’s on the jig we need to attach the 5/32” brass angle supports, you need to make two. Take your time on these and make them look nice, use your Dremel with a drum sanding bit to shape the ends closes to the forks. Cut half of the angle off and wrap them around so that you can solder them to the top of part A. I didn’t take a picture of the next step, but when you remove the assembly from the jig you will need to add solder to the inside where parts A and B come together. It’s a tight fit so you will need a small soldering gun to get back there.

#30 Solder your top shock support to part A.

#31 Now back to the wheel forks, we need to make them pretty. Mix a batch of 5 min epoxy thoughaly and quickly. Then add some micro balloons for a nice thick consistency and then quickly apply it to the forks as shown. Rotate the piece so that it will flow and dry evenly, I hit it with a heat gun to help it flow and dry faster.

SMUGator

If you have great ideas on actuating the gear doors, that would be a nice extension to the tailwheel build. I'm working on that part right now and have some ideas, but nothing proven yet. I've seen some using pushrods and ball links off the gear body, but it seems a shame to go to all of this trouble and have door openers that stick out like a sore thumb.

Tom

Wildcard

This is fantastic!!! I know there are some people that can look at a picture and then build it but I am definatley not one of them. I'm just another person who would like to say THANK YOU for taking the time to show us how it's done.

Brett

HalH

My Feedback: (12)

I have the very same PC board that Luke uses. I have about 40 4"X12" sheets that I will sell for $3 plus shipping.

chilie

Tom,

I've seen your posts on how you did the wheel doors on your plane. Couldn't you do something similar to that method for the rear tailwheel doors? It seemed like such a simple yet effective way of doing it. I plan on mimicing your design on mine.

nemesis4u

My Feedback: (77)

REAPERGRIM,

VERY, Very nice... TRULY THE WORK of an ARTIST! We can definitely apply these principles to SKYRAIDER TAILWHEEL UNITS! Great step=by-step action! (GLAD the nasty Twister left you alone!)

-TOMAS

SMUGator

here are the gear doors that chilie was talking about - http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5343955

I thought about using that approach but have two challenges:

[ul][*] There isn't much room in the 1/8 tailcone, so whatever you do has to be pretty simple.[*] The Sierra mains generate a lot of torque and holding power, but I don't want to put much stress on the servo that I'm using to retract the tailwheel, so I don't want the gear to have to defeat any opening springs on the way in.
[/ul]

I'm thinking about using a bit of throttle cable drive from the extension arm of the tailwheel.

Tom

chilie

I can see what you are talking about. I guess it would be hard to get your hands inside that thing to make adjustments.

BTW, those doors are sweet!

SMUGator

If you are building the 1/8, here's how we did the tailwheel - http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5461397

It still makes me laugh, but it works great. If you scroll down a few posts, you can see where we added the styrene "hubcaps".

Tom

WhoDaMan

My Feedback: (164)

this is great stuff,,, Thanks

ReaperGrim

I used the pushrod idea and it works great and you can't see it really unless you lift the plane up and look directly into the opening. I have the ball link location marked on the upper part "A". It works flawlessly and very smooth.

Click [link=http://zollnermodels.com/Video/Corsair%20Tail%20Wheel.wmv]HERE[/link] to see it work.

WhoDaMan

My Feedback: (164)

That looks great and the MO is on its way Luke,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, AWESOME
Dave

ReaperGrim

Thanks Brett and thanks for stopping by Tomas!

Appreciate it Dave, and I hope you like it!

I will now attempt to add some more info before I go to the field to do some flying. I’ve actually finished my tail wheel, I’m just running slow on the instructions.

#32 Now we need to attach the shock, but before we do that we need to drill two holes in the shock. The upper one is for the shock spring retaining rod, make that hole about 3/8” from the bottom, or wherever you want to get the desired tension on the spring. The hole at the bottom is for the aircraft tie down loop and the tail hook pivot. Get that one as straight as possible or your tail hook will not retract straight. Drill a hole in the tail hook lever rod and get that one as straight as possible also.

#33 Next cut the slot in the tail hook lever rod so that you can solder the thin brass lever in position. The lever should be slightly bent to the side with the lever (right side as if sitting in the cockpit).

#34 Test fit your shock and elongate the hole at the end of part “B” so that it is a tight fit. Then test fit part “I” as shown, cut it down as needed.

#35 Before you solder your shock you want to make sure your tail hook is straight, so put everything together and test it. I have a small block of wood glued to the bench with a line 90 degrees to that so I can check alignment. This will be the trickiest part in my opinion.

#36 Notch out the shock so that your tail hook can move to the stowed position.

chilie

I thought everyone might want some pictures for reference of what the real tailwheel looks like.

Kelsey_B

Luke,

Thanks for sharing your work on the tailwheel. I definitely want to give this a try.

ReaperGrim

Great! Please add your pictures and progress and ask any questions you may have right here in the forum. Now dive right in!

Great pics Chilie, thaks!

#37 Next fit part “I” in position and gradually enlarge the cuts so that it is a nice fit. Solder in place.

#38 Test fit your tail hook and lever to make sure no solder filled the hole, you must be very careful around this area, because if you enlarge the tail hook pivot hole in the shock bottom the tail hook will have lots of play at the end.

#39 Drill hole for the shock retaining pin, not critical just make it look nice.

#40 You will need to cut one more round retainer, this is best done on the lathe. First drill a 1/8 hole in the PC board and cut it down to size with tin snips, insert some 1/8” brass and turn it on the lathe (if it spins on the 1/8" brass just use a little CA to hold it). When you’re done turning it down so that it is a snug fit you will need to enlarge the hole slightly so that the 1/8” brass rod turns freely. When soldering this piece in use another scrap piece of ½” brass tube to hold it in place and keep it straight.

ReaperGrim

#41 Cut out your control arm and a small piece of brass to act as a spacer to hold the tail wheel in position. You want the control arm high enough so that it spins all the way around, this height will ensure that it does not interfere with the tail hook control rod in normal operation.

#42 At this time go ahead and install the retaining pin in your shock and solder in place. Make sure you don’t get it to hot or you could ruin your spring.

#43 Assemble the parts for you mounting plate as shown.

#44 If the parts are a tight enough fit then you should be able to assemble it as shown without any clamps and it’ll stay in place for soldering. Just tack solder the inner corners and then solder the brass angle on the outside corner.

SMUGator

Here is how we ended up linking our gear doors. Pretty happy with it. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7212049

Tom

chilie

Smug,

how much throw do you need in order to move the tail wheel up and down. I was planning on using a air ram with a 1" stroke. Will that be enough?
Or would you recommend using a servo instead?

SMUGator

One inch should be just enough. Air would work just as well as a servo. We went with a servo because our main air valve is in the wing and we didn't want another pressure connection to deal with when assembling the plane. Purely a matter of personal preference. Air should make it easier to control the retraction speed, which would be a bonus.

Tom

chilie

okay...good to know.

I've cut out all the parts for this tailwheel. I'll start the assembly soon!

chilie

Well I've been making some great progress on my tailwheel. I have pretty much the whole thing built. All that is left is to assemble the shock absorber. I'm waiting for a friend to finish milling the shock piston.
I still have to get a tail wheel and finish the axle for it and build out the wheel forks to give it some depth.

ReaperGrim

Great work Chilie! I’m very impressed with your progress. You are definitely invited to join my squadron (1/6 Corsair group build)! So you can call me skipper from now on!

chilie

Ey Skipper!

I must say I'm rather impressed with myself in that I was able to make it. It wasn't nearly as hard as I expected once I understood how the whole thing goes together. The whole thing is pretty light too.

Major kudo's to you Grim. It's pretty engenious how you designed the whole retractability. I noticed right away how it "locks" into place once in the down position. Pretty neat if you ask me.

Can you post a link to your new build?

warks62

My Feedback: (140)

Looks good Chilie great progress, mine is almost to your stage hope to have some pics of it finished soon just need to pick up some 3/32" brass somehow I thought I had some. Anyways will pick it up tomorrow and get this finished. Then on to the bigger part of the build.

Randy