Jesse Open

acdii

I have always used the cable type for throttles. No slop in them and no stretch or shrink either. Don't need reversed levers or any other hardware either with the 4 strokes. The only plane so far I have not used them on and used a solid wire is the B-25 because the throttle servo is right behind the firewall and only needs about 4" of length.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

That is a short throttle length.

acdii

Engine pod I made for the B-25. Supports the FG-30. It is all sefl contained except for the battery. The ignition module will attach above the mount, and then a harness will connect it and the servo to the nacelle wiring.

Glowgeek

Looking good Bruce. Think you'll finish the B25 this summer?

Jesse Open

acdii

Still have a way to go, only have one nacelle 95% done, still have to get the other side to match. Because I am modelling a specific plane that actually exists I have to match the scoop as well.

Glowgeek

Bondo for the win!

acdii

Nope, no bondo on that barge! Thats pink foam and balsa filler.

Jesse Open

We use a lot of pink foam here. At least 5000 pounds in the room behind me We do the glue-ups there. I think Lonnie spotted your squeegee!

acdii

ahh yes. That is about 20 years old too. They last a long time as long as kept clean.

Glowgeek

Yep, busted! So after pink foam and filler will it get glassed?

acdii

Thats the plan. 3/4 ounce cloth is already on the shelf. I have to do a couple test panels to make sure the Poly works with it first. I used .5 cloth on my Corsair with Minwax and it worked great. Hoping to do the same with the .75 ounce cloth. I have to make fiberglass servo hatches for the tail still where the rudder servos go. Still a lot of work left, and the Laser will make it easier to fabricate parts for the bomb bay mechanism, as well as the radio tray and battery mounts. As you can see by the engine pod, I like to modulalize things for easy maintenance.

Glowgeek

If you're talking about the water based polycrylic, yes it works fine on 3/4 oz glass. Recoating should be done in about 30 min or within an hour for sure or you'll have to wait 24 hrs. and sand for tooth. It's fairly thin so applying a fast drying sanding sealer first on raw wood keeps the weight to a minimum. I've not glassed a model, just canoes.

jester_s1

Getting the cam shaft out of the hosing on my FA80- I took the set screw out that holds the shaft it, but it won't budge. Is there something else I'm supposed to remove to be able to get it apart?

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

my friend that ran glow boats with me way back would mix up Bondo, and also mix up Epoxy then mix the 2 together to make a Bedding or Filler,,

I never tried it

Jim

Rudolph Hart

Jester you could try tapping the pin with a small plastic hammer and pin punch, unless you have already. I'm a bit confused or i've missed a page here? you initially had a rather underwhelming top end rpm and it ran worse at lower rpm. Dave and i suggested the same easy fix to your timing problem, if that's what it was, and lonnie just about covered everything else. Now you are going even further and removing the cam itself from the housing. Here's a multi choice for you...
A I did what pete and dave suggested as an easy way to check the timing and it was a tooth out, fixed that then fired the old fa80 up and it now pulls max rpm with a great idle and transition.
B I did all the things lonnie suggested and boy does it run great, had a few beers to celebrate. Quite a few.
C Flew my plane with the fixed fa80 and it went like the clappers but i over did the benchracing and beers after flying so now i'm in the shed pulling the cam out just for fun
D I found a small screw on the floor so i've completely stripped the fa80 to see if there's one missing.
E I've still got two strokes and heli's in my modelling shed so sometimes i get confused plus it may be bad juju

ps mike you are whistling in the wind friend, nothing beats golden rods except maybe dave's golden staff, heard he uses that to guide the flock up the mountain top

Jesse Open

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

No real need to remove the cam from it's housing unless there is something visibly wrong with it.

Pete, the closest I've been to owning sheep is my Australian Sheep dog, his name is Nick, short for St. Nicholas, he'll be 10 years old on Thanksgiving. He's a great dog and if a cat happens to be near the center of the yard he can catch them before they get over the fence. He doesn't bite them or harm them, he just simply runs over them, it makes them awful mad. Did I say he's fast?

Glowgeek

Yes, the castor gum....heehee. As previously stated heat works but no need to remove the cam from the box if it turns freely. If you do end up removing the cam pin take care to keep track of those shims.

Pete, you're a riot, always good to have a hardy laugh before work.

Jesse Open

If you still decide to disassemble the cambox, mind the two end thrust washers that are present and easily lost.

(Sorry Lonnie, I missed your comment).

jester_s1

I had asked because I was having trouble getting the lifter out so I could use the nyrod to set the timing. I wound up getting them out by tapping on the housing while it was upside down a few times to expose the head of the lifter an then grabbing it with pliers. I should be able to run the engine today. Before disassembling the engine, I blew into the carb and found the intake to be pretty well sealed. The valves aren't leaking either. The needle valve Orings are good too verified by blowing into the fuel line while blocking the carb opening. So hopefully this was all there was to it and I'll have a good running engine for the Spitfire and a good reason to get inebriated after flying hours are over. Thanks to all of you guy who helped.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

What prop if I may ask, Thanks

jester_s1

Master Airscrew 12x8 3 blade.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

J, when you run it next time try a 13 x 6 and if you get 97+ it's good to go. That will tell you it's in the ball park power wise. The 12 x 8 3-b at 8,400 is not bad.