AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

Tsutomu,

Normally, car fuel has only 10 to 12% synthetic oil. There are complex reasons for this, mostly that cars rarely go to full throttle for more than short periods as in 30 seconds or so, on the straight away. Then they throttle back for the turns and need small oil for instant throttle/acceleration. Boats, however, may need much oil because they do run full speed for much longer straightaways. I am not really sure, though, how much oil is best for boats.

I would suggest that for airplane engines, too much oil would not hurt performance too much. Especially because you have lots of nitro. Perhaps you should just try the fuel and let us all know how it performed. If you have a tachometer, we would be interested to know maximum RPM, idle RPM and how well the throttle response works.

Tsutomu Mabuchi

My Feedback: (1)

Andy,

I will post the engine data with this synthetic fuel.
The last problem is that the muffler is a bit loose because
the retainer wire is not tight enough.
I will use an additional wire to hold the muffler tight
for constant pressure.
Thank you again.

Tsutomu Mabuchi

Japanman

Tsutomo,
I agree with what Andy says. Castor is important, but not essential in a norvel so long as you are not racing.

I have been tryng to buy all castor fuel here (Mie-pref) but I have not been able to find any appart from FAI 0%nitro fuel.
I have tried some different fuels here, blending high nitro fuel with methanol and castor oil to make my own synthetic/castor fuel.
I found a castor/synthetic blend fuel I have been using which I can recommend if you are interested.

Stefan

Tsutomu Mabuchi

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Japanman,

I try to use only synthetic fuel for Norvels now.
The LHS owner said he had to order 4 of a galon can at once to
a wholesaler to sell me only a galon and 3 of them would probably
be left unsold. Almost no one would use castor fuel today except
small engine users.
I have some Cox 1/2A engines and will use Cox 50% nitro fuel for
them. The fuel had been recommended by another LHS for smoother
running Cox engines than other fuel, it must be a castor fuel.

Tsutomu Mabuchi

Japanman

Hi,
You are lucky to be able to find cox fuel where you are. I bet it is $$$expensive$$!!

Stefan

Wufnu

My Feedback: (2)

I use Tower Power 15% (I've never needed more nitro and my Norvel seems to agree). Apparently full synthetic, although you can get a synthetic/castor blend in their premium line. Never caused a problem. The benefit of the sport fuel is that it is sold in quarts and bypasses the "hazardous materials" charge they make you pay to ship it, you can actually get four quarts cheaper than you can get a gallon. For some reason, they do not seem to do this with their premium fuels.

You could try:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXA299&P=0

Also:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJC50&P=0

Since it says it cannot be shipped by air, however, I don't know if you can get it in Japan?

bogateer

What is the difference between the Norvel 100138 and the 110138 plugs?

psullivan

Well guys, I am going to give my Norvel one more chance before I Just buy a bunch of electic crap to throw on my DNU. Maybe I will let the guy who sold it to me look at it then I will just probably ship it off to Andy with a prayer or somthing. Its got compresion, its getting gas. just wont run low rpms and I have no idea why.

Justin

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Can you post some pics? Maybe someone around here will spot something overlooked.

psullivan

I just MIGHT have hit something, I was using a car racing fuel (rocket science 25%) It doesnt say how much oil is in it! I dont know yet but tomorow I am going to use 10% aircraft fuel and see if just maybe I can get on to something.

Justin

What would pics do? I could no way get one with enough detail, and what can you tell from the outside of engine?

Were is closed onthe needle? when I try and turn my needle backwards (twisting it right if you are looking at the side with the needle, I cant close it all the way. There are still a bit of threads, Is this normal?

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

It's just that sometimes another set of eyes can spot something that might get missed. Pictures always convey a great deal more info, anyway.

I do know that car fuel typically does not have the proper oil content needed for aircraft engines, i.e., not enough. It has, in part, to do with the differences between car and aircraft throttle usage and the dissimilar demands that this puts on the engines during use.

"when I try and turn my needle backwards (twisting it right if you are looking at the side with the needle, I cant close it all the way."

Clockwise closes (leans) the neddle valve setting, also referred to as turning the needle "in"; counter-clockwise, or, "out", opens (richens) the needle valve setting. When you feel resistance, the needle is all the way closed (unless there's foreign matter blocking it). Don't force it past this point. This is a rule that applies to any and all engines with needle valves. You'll have to wait for someone with specific experience with Norvels to answer your question about the exposed threads (though this is often normal on other engines, as it is with Coxes, for example).

Were you using the car fuel because it has a higher nitro content that your aircraft fuel?

D Bronk

PSvan.. Are you saying, that the needle just rotates, when you turn it Clockwise, and, never stops/bottoms out..Have you taken the Glow plug out of the cylinder and checked to see if it Glows.Does the engine at least pop? When you prime it, does it, at least burn off the prime, and, run for a second..These are not overly complicted engines..Please explain exactly your situation as to what you Are doing ,and, What the engine is doing too..Opps,Sorry, I see you have had it running..the idle Rpm on these engines is 3500 RPM you can`t expect it to run much slower than that..If the engine is not fully broken in yet ,it will be "Tight",and not want to idle ..Do you have an Instruction Sheet with your engine??Let me know ,if you don`t ,and ,I can scan mine for you?

D Bronk

Hey ,did you check the idle stop?? I took them out on my engines. I only use them ,while there is no servo hooked up,and bench running..

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Justin, D Bronk suggested an excellent thing to check: the idle stop screw. It blocks the carb barrel from rotating to the closed position if it is in too far. This would in effect turn your carb into a control line venturi. Good call D Bronk.

psullivan

once agian I will just try to tell everything I can think of

Yes it starts/runs
runs pretty gppd at high end, tops off at about 16k
wont run lower than9-10k

It still maybey a prob with fuel line..muffeler wont stay on very tigh and there are some,not many, bubbles in the fuel line..I can5t...type...atall..burntthe...crapouta my haand on tha..muff...hoter than sodering iron.. and no..its not wayto lean lol...ouch..

J7ustin

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

So the idle stop adjustment screw is allowing the barrel to close all the way? You may want to turn it counterclockwise a few turns just to make certain.

D Bronk

PSvan..If the Screen is still on the Carb Take it out carefully..Then Take that Idle Screw totaly out ;It`s an Egg shaped, Cam type Screw..Look down the Barrel of the Carb..What you should see, is, the Hole in the Spray Bar perfectly centered ,in the Carburator Throat..When You close the Throttle, you should`nt see any of the hole in the Spray bar.That would actually kill the engine if it was running..Let us know what you see when you do this..Pictures would help as RainD. said earlier...AND you should have No bubbles ..There`s an air leak somewhere,that needs to be straightened out..

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Justin, I know this may be more than you want to get into, but it is honestly best to work on engines in a test stand, not mounted in the plane.

The process is one of isolating the problem(s). The fewer variables the easier this will be. Also, you can examine the tank and lines much easier and experiment with raising and lowering the tank's centerline in relation to the carb spraybar. It is also easier to make engine adjustments on a stand.

FWIW, I always break in and set up my engines on a stand first before I ever even think about putting them in a model.

D Bronk

Here`s my Down ,and Dirty, test Stand,there`s Room to mount ,lots of different engines, without useing the same hole, Twice..Beats trying to work over, a Running engine, in a plane..I use an extra fuel tank, but you could make a Film Canister tank, that would do the job.The Norvels can pull fuel, from a tank, that`s quite a bit lower than the Carb,no problem there.It`s my Fun Block..LOL

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Darn. I'm out of soy milk (I can't handle lacto-glycerin), but I do have an unopened box of Rice Chex.

I can't not show off my homemade stand, too. It's just one of those ancient Tatone jobs. I drilled a hole in a dowel, jammed a piece of fuel tubing in to grip the throttle wire and I just stick blocks under the tank to adjust its height.

That's an FP .35 that I cooked in anti-freeze in a yardsale crockpot for 24hrs. Looks brand new now. Like all FPs it starts on the first or second hand flip.

D Bronk

Cheerios!!!! Good for Kids, And ,Adults Alike..When I run out of milk,Orange juice works..When I used to drink,,it was Cornflakes, and Whiskey,.Grain does the Body goodand there`s more than one way to get itLOL...Thats a real Techy 2X4 you got there RD,Nice.Usually, I just wire the Throttle Wide open,till broken in, then I just put a wire to the Throttle to operate like that..Guess I`ll have to jazz up my Board Now..HAha

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

I'm adding clutter to this FAQ that doesn't need to be here. I'm removing the stuff unrelated to Norvel.

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

edited out to remove clutter. Bruce maybe you can delete my last two posts since they don't relate to Norvel.

psullivan

Yea guys Ive got it in my own test stand (D.Brown .061 motor mount screwed on to side of work bench..)

All my airplanes get a few bubbles in the line, theres no way to eleminate all of them lol..

'avent been able to work on it. Skeet Shoot on saterday, Archery today..Archery tomorow,skeet tuesday.. nothing on wednesday, friday..DOVE SEASON BABY!!

oh well Ill get to it sometime..

Justin

lildiesel

Has anybody compiled a list of the similarities, differences, and parts commonalities between the Norvel AME .061. the Big Mig .061, and the AP Wasp .061? The AP .061 I bought and put an RJL diesel head on for my son's first control line plane* externally looks like a Norvel AME circa 1998 except for the threaded prop shaft and turned prop nut with an ogival shape. Internally it has 5 inlet ports like the Big Mig and a round connecting rod instead of the flat piece shown on the parts list. Are there any more differences of note besides the absence of the Revlite coating and the guys machining and assembling it being fueled by plum wine instead of vodka?


*Of course, I would never let him try to fly the most direct route to China with one of my Webra Piccolos.