PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

I have a Norvel .074 NIB. I'm converting to electric before the build on this model is even started. I have to find out what it's worth and I'm going to sell it so I can get some electric gear. Write me for photos.

Jim

bsteckler

Don't know if this will help, but I bought two new .074's last week (spare parts might come in handy) at my LHS for $44.95 each. Don't know whether they're really worth that much or not, but that's what they're going for in my neck of the woods. Other than these, I haven't seen any others to get an idea on price.

Strykaas

What a bargain

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Wow, $44.95 sounds low, I'm pretty sure I paid a fair amount more than that for mine. But I haven't had time to research it yet, I may still find out it was less.

Jim

Strykaas

As any discontinued item, price sky rockets [&:]

bsteckler

Good point. Living as I do here in the sticks, it might be that nobody but me knows - or perhaps even cares - that Norvel is gone, thus the pricing.

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

NIB .074's are selling for up to and over $100.00 on fleabay regularly

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

And the last .074 I bought from a retailer in upper NY state was over $54.00.

bsteckler

Perhaps I may have finally found the singular benefit to living in BFE. Well, that and the fact that proper dental care is purely optional.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

EWWWW, bsteckler!
Okay, so I'll strike a balance and put this Norvel .074 up for sale at 75 bucks plus some basic shipping amount like 8 bucks. Enough for the value from the discontinued motors, but less than the E-Bay gouge. I'll use the cash for an electric motor or speed control or RX.

Thanks for helping me on figuring out what the value is, guys....and the humor.

Jim

lear31A

My Feedback: (123)

I travel alot and see these motors alot. Mostly around $50 bucks. They are great for sure. Heres a pic of one of mine.

tag-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

Anyone know where I could find a prop drive washer for a Norvel .061 ? Is there any source for parts left? The AP won't fit as it has a different configuration. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Tag

ladihoe

My Feedback: (3)

I hope you are still into the small engines. I have a norvel big mig .061, and need to find somewhere to buy the prop from. the shaft diameter is only about 1/8 inch.
can you help?

DeviousDave

Any Hobby Shop can order you APC props for your motor. They are pretty cheap, so I'd get all of the common sizes:

6-3
5.7-3
5.5-2
5-3

etc.

Luna_Rendezvous

My NIB .061 Big Mig arrived today, gave it a through clean and reassembled with a good lube of caster. This being my first Norvel I have no Idea exactly what I've bought and what to expect with performance (no instruction manual), if some one could give me a positive ID and age, it would be much appreciated, the carbie looks like it is glued into the case, is this a design flaw? Also what sort of fuel should I mix for it... running in and normal operation, I have AA castor and Coolpower Blue lubricants available.

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

Luna,

Carb glued in is a design flaw only because they didn't use a good glue. Redo it with J B Weld and you'll have no trouble. You have an early, AAN engine, not the Revlite. AAN, Aluminum piston with a Nickle plated, Aluminum cylinder.

Revlite had the cylinder hard anodized with the piston nickle plated. A very good concept but if set up too tight could give you grief. As it is, the engine you have should be run in like any normal engine of the ABC/AAN/AAC type. Don't spend a lot of time running it rich. Take it to JUST lean, a very slight burble here and there. You DON'T want the engine to run too cool as with rich running. The cylinder won't expand adequately and you'll wear out that very useful "pinch" at TDC that gives these types of engine their power. If you got an engine with little pinch, don't worry about break in, just fly it with a mildly lean setting and turn it in as you get a few tanks through it.

One big thing in MY book. Most throttled, 1/2A RC engines don't give you a means to adjust the low end mixture. As such, at low throttle, they typically load up with fuel during prolonged idling and give poor transition.

HOWEVER, with a ganging of tolerances and other factors, you may get lucky and get one that the low end's mixture, just by chance, is right on. Sometimes you find that the main needle has quite a broad range. You're good and lean and you turn in the needle some more without going any leaner,,,, at the top end. You can use this to adjust for your idle mixture. Just keep leaning the top end without going overlean till you get the idle mixture just right. All the .074s behave this way, only a few .06s do it. I do this on the ground and then do a final, fine tuning, in the air.

Here, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5U6Kk7L3HVE

you can see a dieselized .06 with the stock throttle, idling and transitioning quite nicely. Ideally, I would install an adjustable airbleed, just in case it's needed.

On glow, even though it's not recommended, I've had good luck with plain old, Cool Power 25%. Spiking the 18% all synthetic oil by adding Castor to make it 20 or 22% would probably give you some added insurance and longevity.

Your mentioning lubricants implies that you'll be mixing your own fuel. Be aware that small engines always need a fair bit of nitro to do their best work. Power AND throttling will improve much with at least some nitro and ideally, up to 25%

Hope that helps and yes, just my opinion. Other opinions are welcomed and encouraged. There are sixteen ways to skin a cat and every one of them will give you a good result.

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

Oh yes,

You also have a cylinder with the five bypass ports. Quite essential in getting good throttling. The AME version with three larger ports gave better power but at the expense of good throttling.

Luna_Rendezvous

Thanks for the info Andy much appreciated, I have been mixing my own fuels for quite a few years now, you save a few dollars and you can fine tune the brew to particular engines. How does a brew of 15-20-65 NOM with 50/50 split of castor and coolpower blue sound (run in) and for normal operation 25-20-55 NOM again 50/50 split with the oil?

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Luna,

I've read a bit of controversy about running an engine in on one fuel then switching to another formula for general use. Don't know. I just use commercial fuel from the get go and have never had any problems that I know of. I'd just start with 25% nitro and the 50/50, 20% oil and stick with it.

Will the lower nitro fuel run the engine cooler or hotter, initially. If only slightly cooler that may not be a problem but can you monitor temps? How cool is too cool though? Sorry, can't help much there. The only fuels I mix are diesel.

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

BTW,

If you've not put the engine back together, look out for this potential problem. You may have noticed that the piston pin is staked in place. Some were not done very securely and the pin can drift and ruin your day. I always redo this with a 1/8" diameter piece of piano wire or the like. Just give the pinhole edge a good whack with a SMALL hammer on all the edges using the clean shank of a drill bit.

Luna_Rendezvous

Will take a look to at the wrist pin, thanks for the tip! With regards to nitro content, I find more nitro tends to run a little cooler, manly because it brings more oxygen to the combustion, and as such needs a richer needle, which puts more oil through the engine which aids cooling.

...mike

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

Mike,

What you say about nitro and cooling makes sense. Thanks for that. Sometimes a cowled engine will run a bit hot and that may help.

Luna_Rendezvous

Is there any difference in power / engine life or reliablity between the newer and pre-revlite engines?

AndyW

My Feedback: (1)

Mike,

Theoretically, Revlites are more durable. The Revlites are a hard anodized cylinder with a nickle plated piston. This gives you a much harder combo than nickle on high silicon aluminum. However, the anodized is abrasive to a degree. It has a porous surface that holds oil so this, theoretically, limits wear. I'm not so sure. The Revlite system works very well but I'm not so sure it's more durable, lasting longer or giving more overall mileage etc. Where Revlite is superior is in the compression seal. Less blow by with up to 25% better mileage per ounce of fuel. This was Norvel's claim and has been tested and proven by myself, at least on the smaller engines. A Revlite piston/cylinder assembly is a drop in replacement if you can get them. Maybe LightMachines still has that.

My best Revlites had a very tight fit that you broke in carefully using a heat gun to get them running for a hot, run in, fit. They didn't last much longer than a good, ABC set up in my estimation. I'm guessing that a chromed sleeve with a hard anodized piston might work better, chrome being harder than nickel.

Luna_Rendezvous

Wow, thanks Andy thats just the kind of info I was looking for, your a champion guy [sm=thumbup.gif]